Senin, 11 Agustus 2008

10 ways to be kind to your skin in the spring

Your skin resembles your alligator bag

"The two keys are moisturization and things that make the skin glow, such as exfoliation," says Jeffrey Dover, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale University School of Medicine. Start with a shower rubdown, using a moisturizing body cleanser on a clean washcloth. Don't bother scrubbing your legs if you already use a razor, since shaving removes dead skin on its own. Tempting though it may be to follow this kind of body exfoliation with a heavy cream, it's an unwise move (except on your freshly shaved legs) because in warm weather, even slight perspiration can leave skin dripping. You can avoid the issue completely by applying a soothing cream at night. Otherwise, any light lotion that contains glycolic, alpha hydroxy, or fruit acid will quickly restore vibrance to dead-looking skin, says Dover. (Alyria Resurfacing Body Care lotion contains time-released glycolic acid to reduce irritation.)


For more intense exfoliation on the arms and chest, the microdermabrasion treatment Vibraderm, available at many dermatology offices, uses a vibrating paddle rather than abrasive particles or suction, and was shown in a company-sponsored study to remove over 75 percent of the skin's outermost layer on those areas in less than 10 minutes.

Your arms deserve a penalty for unnecessary roughness

The likely culprit is keratosis pilaris, a genetic condition that can resemble goose bumps (they tend to be white or red), and appears on the arms, legs, or buttocks of about half of all women. "Extra skin cells build up around individual hair follicles, giving you a bumpy texture and a polka-dotted appearance," says Kunin. Though there's no cure, a daily moisturizer containing urea, glycolic, or lactic acid can soften the bumps; Dover is partial to AmLactin, a lactic acid cream, while Kunin's Dermadoctor KP Duty also has a strong following. A body scrub can wear down the bumps even more, but dermatologists preach moderation, since overscrubbing can cause extra redness and inflammation. "Natural particles — crushed seeds or nut shells — have jagged edges that can injure the skin," says Kunin. Synthetic microbeads, on the other hand, are less likely to tear skin. For an instant improvement, apply a shimmery cream to refract light.

Your knees and elbows have faded to gray

"The skin in these areas is some of the driest on our bodies, and so it can take on a cracked, whitish, or grayish appearance — especially on olive or darker skin," says Jeanine Downie, assistant attending dermatologist at Mountainside Hospital in Montclair, New Jersey, and co-author of "Beautiful Skin of Color" (Regan Books/HarperCollins). The best fix is a potent daily moisturizing cream, such as AmLactin or Salex (by prescription), or even petroleum jelly on the elbows and knees once a week before bed. "Trim the toes off a tube sock, and shimmy it up the arm so the Vaseline stays in contact with your skin instead of wiping off on your sheets," Downie says. Scrubbing, scratching, picking, or even leaning on knees or elbows can exacerbate ashiness. So, too, can sun exposure. "When the background skin gets darker, the ashy skin on top stands out more," says Downie, who recommends "constant" use of SPF 30 (or higher) sunscreen.

Acne pops up in unexpected — and unpleasant — places

As if the very presence of pimples on your back and rear weren't disturbing enough, the acne there is also most likely to produce a lasting scar. "The skin is thicker, and there are fewer blood vessels, which means slower healing," says Dover. Wash the areas with a benzoyl-peroxide cleanser, such as Peter Thomas Roth Medicated BPO 10% Acne Wash or PanOxyl. But be sure to let any creams or gels sink in fully before dressing because they can bleach some fabrics. You can also consider treatments with a diode laser (like Smooth Beam), photodynamic therapy, Intense Pulsed Dye laser, or blue light, which often help to rid the skin of acne gradually over a few sessions (usually for $250 to $600 each). Aesthera's Isolaz treatment offers the advantage of instant gratification, says Vic Narurkar, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California–Davis School of Medicine. Available in physicians' offices for $250 to $400, Isolaz suctions the skin to unclog pores while delivering broadband light to kill acne-causing bacteria immediately, for results "just like a cortisone injection," he says. Narurkar recently co-authored a study on the device in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology that found that it reduced all types of acne (including whiteheads and cysts) by 50 percent in a single treatment and by 90 percent with two treatments, and results were usually maintained for three to six months. "We still recommend a series of three to four treatments, as patients will see improvements in pore size reduction, discoloration, and brown spots," he says.

Your foot calluses are as tough as leather

High heels and pinched shoes may contribute to calluses by causing friction, but Narurkar says the problem can often be alleviated by slipping in a thin insert. One is Foot Petals Tip Toes, a cushion that supports the ball of the foot and is small enough even for open-toe shoes.

To remove existing calluses, take a shower or bath so that skin is soft and pliable, then buff feet with a foot file, a pumice stone, or a pad premoistened with a cleanser, such as Kerasal Callus Removal Cleansing Pads. Follow with a cream containing urea, which "eats away at and loosens up the dead skin cells, and makes the skin really smooth and hydrated," says Kathy Fields, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California–San Francisco. You can try CurĂ©l Targeted Therapy Foot Cream (which smells of coconut, since company research revealed that most women dislike peppermint scents at night, when they're most likely to apply cream). For a stronger treatment, ask your doctor for a prescription cream that contains 6 percent salicylic acid or 40 percent urea.

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